Varanasi - Day 3

Sunrise on the Ganges (Paromita Bathija, 2014)

The Ganga beckons. We'd all planned to wake up and be ready by 4:30, to watch the sunrise from the river. As we slowly stumbled out of our rooms at 4:40, we realised that only 6-7 of us had woken up. After an hour of grumpy greetings, we were finally off. Walking through the campus before dawn, we found 2 autos that took 5 people at a time and came back for the rest. By the time we all reached the ghats, the sky was already bright. The city had awoken along with the sun, and the ghats were swarming with early morning bathers, women huddled in groups and praying, children attempting to sell floating Diyas and, well, us. There was so much to see on the ghats, the early rise of the people seemed to have more to offer than the sun itself. We clambered onto 3 very small looking boats, clumsy from the unfamiliarity. As we left the shore, I felt apprehension wash over me. Large water bodies aren't exactly my favourite thing in the world.

The cool breeze swept past us slowly as we drifted along the river, and slowly, the pale blue skies began to change. A tinge of yellow popped up, followed by an orange and red. The colours blended into the sky as though they had been destined to. And then, miracles happened. The sun rose, barely visible through the morning fog. As it slowly climbed above the horizon, we were able to see it clearly. And it was the most picturesque sunrise the world has seen in a long time. The sun was a blob of Red and Yellow acrylic paint on the pale blue canvas that was the sky. It stood out so much against the sky, it was almost fluorescent. As the river caught sight of it, it paved a path of orange and yellow, all through its width. As the sun  greeted the Ganga, it bowed its head down and scattered Red across the sky. The river was a pristine blue in the distance. 

Sunrise on the Ganges (Paromita Bathija, 2014)

The sun had risen in all its glory, but the air remained cold and beautiful. The naav moved past each changing ghat, and everywhere we saw Varanasi waking up. Each ghat came with different kinds of people, architecture and rituals. Yet, they were all overflowing with people bathing and praying the same way they do every day. It's one of the most mystifying features of these ghats. Even thought there is no defined space between the ghats, the distinction is clearly visible.

The pride the people of Varanasi have in their river is awe-inspiring. They worship it with so much reverence, all we can do is stand back and watch. It makes me wonder, where does this faith come from? What is it about this river that draws millions of people to its banks, drunk on devotion? The boat journey went on for 3 hours, during which I felt a kind of peace and calm that was new to me. The river, with all its magnificence and the role it plays in society, is so endlessly important. 

Varanasi (Paromita Bathija, 2014)

The way back upstream was reserved for contemplation. Why is this river so important to its people? What draws the people back each day, to pray and to follow traditions laid down before them centuries ago? As the heat of the afternoon sun bore down on us, a few people at the back of the boat dozed off. Asleep on the Ganga, imagine the fascination the phrase holds. 

Once we were back, everyone floated into a deep slumber, dreaming of boats on a holy river. The evening saw us gather to discuss experiences, and beginning to discuss areas of individual interest. We segregated the various topics into 3 branches - Architecture, River and People. Later, we all walked towards the BHU Hyderabad Gate to experience some street food, except it turned out there was none nearby. With lots of asking around and some exploring, we found a sweet shop and a chaat seller. It wasn't a street filled with food stalls of all kinds of local food like we'd imagined, but it would have to do. We discussed faith and religion over some super spicy Aloo Tikki before returning to the Guesthouse for dinner and Gulab Jamun.

In the light of the night, we all sat in circles to play the silliest games and sing the silliest songs. It was and I think always will be, one of my favourite parts of the trip, although it wasn't related to Varanasi as such. The city is what brought us together and will keep us together. To fall in love with the same person at the same time creates distances. But to fall in love with a place together, to experience it together and learn to accept it for its flaws and its beauty, creates bonds that last forever.